Washington, DC
Plumbers in Washington
Licensed plumbing contractors for water heaters, leaks, drains, fixtures and repiping. Local labor in Washington runs about 23 percent above the national median, which is the adjustment to apply before you use any national price.
- Metro population
- 678,972
- Labor cost index
- 1.23×
- State
- District of Columbia
Emergency and utility numbers in District of Columbia
For gas odor, downed power lines, or flooding, call 911 or your utility emergency line first — not a contractor. After the immediate hazard is controlled, hire licensed pros for permanent repair.
- 911 — fire, medical, immediate life safety
- Gas odor — leave the building, do not switch lights, call your gas utility emergency number from outside
- Power outage / lines down — utility emergency line; stay away from downed conductors
Trade owners in Washington
Claiming your profile is free — correct licence, service area, and contact. No lead fees and no paid placement.
Claim your businessPlumbers listed in Washington
No listings here yet
We publish a listing only where the organization asked to be listed, or where every field came from a public licence register. Neither has happened for plumbers in Washington yet, so there is nothing to show — rather than a page of names scraped from somewhere and presented as vetted.
The costs, licensing and verification steps below apply regardless. If you run a business here, listing is free and always will be.
What the work costs here
National ranges adjusted by the Washington labor index. Materials move far less by region than labor does, so treat these as directional — the range narrows once someone has actually seen the job.
- Plumber median pay here
- $75,500
- National median $61,550
- Labor cost vs. national
- +23%
- Applied to the estimates below
- Metro population
- 678,972
- District of Columbia
| Job | National typical | Washington typical | Range here |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water Heater Replacement | $1,800 | $2,200 | $1,100–$4,200 |
| Sewer Line Repair & Replacement | $7,000 | $8,600 | $1,800–$37,000 |
| Whole-House Repiping | $9,000 | $11,000 | $4,900–$22,000 |
| Water Softener Installation | $1,800 | $2,200 | $975–$4,300 |
| Well Pump Replacement | $1,800 | $2,200 | $975–$4,900 |
| Toilet Replacement | $350 | $425 | $250–$850 |
| Shower Valve & Cartridge Replacement | $500 | $625 | $250–$1,800 |
| Slab Leak Repair | $3,500 | $4,300 | $1,800–$9,800 |
| Sump Pump Installation | $2,000 | $2,500 | $1,200–$5,500 |
| Tankless Water Heater Conversion | $5,500 | $6,800 | $4,300–$11,000 |
| Drain Cleaning | $225 | $275 | $125–$550 |
| Hydro-Jetting | $650 | $800 | $425–$1,600 |
| Sewer Camera Inspection | $400 | $500 | $250–$975 |
| Leak Detection | $350 | $425 | $175–$1,100 |
| Faucet Replacement | $325 | $400 | $225–$800 |
| Garbage Disposal Replacement | $375 | $450 | $250–$750 |
| Main Shutoff Valve Replacement | $300 | $375 | $175–$750 |
| Pressure Regulator Replacement | $400 | $500 | $250–$925 |
| Water Line Replacement | $4,500 | $5,500 | $2,500–$12,500 |
| Sewer Line Replacement | $15,000 | $18,500 | $9,800–$37,000 |
| Gas Line Installation | $1,200 | $1,500 | $625–$4,300 |
| Bathtub Replacement | $3,500 | $4,300 | $1,800–$9,800 |
| Shower Pan Replacement | $2,500 | $3,100 | $1,200–$6,800 |
| Water Heater Repair | $350 | $425 | $175–$925 |
| Frozen Pipe Repair | $600 | $750 | $250–$3,100 |
| Outdoor Spigot Replacement | $275 | $350 | $175–$625 |
| Septic Tank Pumping | $400 | $500 | $300–$850 |
| Septic System Replacement | $18,000 | $22,000 | $12,500–$43,000 |
| Water Filtration Installation | $1,500 | $1,800 | $625–$4,900 |
| Well Pressure Tank Replacement | $750 | $925 | $500–$1,700 |
| Backflow Preventer Installation | $400 | $500 | $250–$1,100 |
| Bidet Installation | $500 | $625 | $300–$1,500 |
| Washing Machine Hookup | $350 | $425 | $175–$975 |
| Pipe Insulation | $450 | $550 | $250–$1,500 |
| Bathroom Remodel | $15,000 | $18,500 | $7,400–$49,000 |
| Basement Waterproofing | $7,000 | $8,600 | $3,700–$18,500 |
| Sprinkler System Installation | $4,500 | $5,500 | $3,400–$13,500 |
| French Drain Installation | $5,000 | $6,200 | $2,700–$19,500 |
| Yard Drainage Correction | $4,000 | $4,900 | $2,200–$17,000 |
| Dishwasher Installation | $375 | $450 | $250–$1,200 |
| Washer and Dryer Installation | $400 | $500 | $225–$1,500 |
| Crawlspace Encapsulation | $10,000 | $12,500 | $6,800–$32,000 |
| Water Damage Restoration | $5,500 | $6,800 | $2,700–$32,000 |
| Radon Mitigation | $1,600 | $2,000 | $1,100–$5,200 |
| Crawl Space Vapor Barrier | $3,200 | $3,900 | $2,000–$10,500 |
| Sewage Cleanup | $5,000 | $6,200 | $2,700–$21,000 |
How these numbers are derived
National ranges are multiplied by a 1.23× labor index for Washington. The index is an approximation for planning, not a wage survey, and it applies to labor rather than to materials. Use it to sanity-check a quote, not to argue one down to the dollar.
Permits and code in Washington
Checked against the issuing authority on 2026-10-07. Fees and thresholds change — the link below is the authority, this page is not.
DC Department of Buildings (DOB)
Online via DOB NOW portal for most residential trade permits. DC-licensed contractors required; historic district and HPRB review may precede building permits.
Permit office website(202) 671-3500
What needs a permit here
- Electrical panel upgrade, service change, or solar interconnection
- Water heater replacement and gas piping work
- HVAC system replacement, boiler changeout, or duct modifications
- Roof replacement when structural decking is replaced
- Basement legalization or ADU conversion with egress windows
- Structural alterations in rowhouses and condo common elements
| Permit | Published fee | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Building Permit Issuance | $150.00+ by valuation | DC DOB fee schedule uses project valuation; simple trade permits have lower tiers. |
| Electrical Permit | $100.00 - $200.00 | Scales with amperage and scope. |
| Plumbing Water Heater Permit | $85.00 - $140.00 | Includes gas test and relief valve. |
| Mechanical HVAC Permit | $95.00 - $165.00 | Equipment changeout and venting compliance. |
Local amendments worth knowing
Cities adopt the model codes then amend them. The amendments are what catch people out, because a national guide will not mention them.
DC Construction Codes (2017 series amendments)
Local adoption of IBC/IRC with DC-specific energy and green building provisions.
Read the amendmentHistoric Preservation Review Board (HPRB)
Exterior alterations in historic districts require HPRB approval before DOB permit.
Read the amendmentDC Green Building Act / Energy Conservation
Some projects trigger additional energy documentation on major renovations.
Read the amendment
Verify a licence
DC Department of Licensing and Consumer Protection (DLCP) — Electrical
Electrical contractors and journeyman electricians
Public licence lookupDC DLCP — Plumbing and Gas
Plumbers and gas fitters
Public licence lookupDC DLCP — HVAC
HVAC contractors
Public licence lookupDC Board of Professional Engineers
PE for structural and geotechnical work
Public licence lookup
Conditions that change the job here
- Federal and local historic districts add months to exterior remodel timelines.
- High water table and Potomac/Anacostia floodplains affect basement conversions and utilities.
- Rowhouse density limits crane access and drives manual material handling costs.
- Humid summers and mixed heating systems (boiler + window AC) complicate HVAC retrofits.
- Condo and co-op board approvals run parallel to DOB permits on many projects.
Local context for Washington, DC
Permit rules, fees, and housing-stock conditions change by city even within the same state. These facts come from the researched metro profile — not from a template with the city name swapped in.
Permit office
DC Department of Buildings (DOB) · Filing information · (202) 671-3500
Common permit triggers here
- Electrical panel upgrade, service change, or solar interconnection
- Water heater replacement and gas piping work
- HVAC system replacement, boiler changeout, or duct modifications
- Roof replacement when structural decking is replaced
- Basement legalization or ADU conversion with egress windows
- Structural alterations in rowhouses and condo common elements
Local conditions that change the work
- Federal and local historic districts add months to exterior remodel timelines.
- High water table and Potomac/Anacostia floodplains affect basement conversions and utilities.
- Rowhouse density limits crane access and drives manual material handling costs.
- Humid summers and mixed heating systems (boiler + window AC) complicate HVAC retrofits.
- Condo and co-op board approvals run parallel to DOB permits on many projects.
Verify before you hire in District of Columbia
Check the licence with the District of Columbia board
Nearly every state licenses journeyman and master plumbers; gas fitting is often a separate endorsement. Search the number in the state's public lookup, confirm it is active, and confirm the classification covers your job rather than something adjacent to it.
Have the insurer send the certificate
Ask for general liability and workers' compensation to be sent to you directly by the insurance agent. A PDF forwarded by the contractor proves the document existed once, not that the policy is current.
Get the scope in writing, with exclusions
What is included matters less than what is excluded. Permits, disposal, patching, and code upgrades triggered by the work are the four line items that most often turn into change orders.
Confirm who pulls the permit
Permit thresholds are municipal in District of Columbia. The licence holder should pull it. If you are asked to pull it as a homeowner on licensed work, you are absorbing their liability.
Never pay the full amount up front
A deposit for materials on a large job is normal. Paying in full before work begins is not, and several states cap what a contractor may take as a deposit.
Work out the problem before you call
- PlumbingNo Hot WaterFind out why a water heater has stopped producing hot water, for both gas and electric units.
- PlumbingDrain Keeps CloggingTell the difference between a local fixture clog and a main line problem before you spend money on the wrong fix.
- PlumbingWater Heater LeakingWater pooling around your water heater — identify where the leak is coming from and whether you can wait or need same-day replacement.
- PlumbingToilet Running ConstantlyA toilet that will not stop running wastes 200 gallons or more per day — find the cause and fix it in minutes or know when to call a plumber.
- PlumbingLow Water PressureWeak water pressure at one fixture or throughout the house — narrow down whether it is a local clog, a supply problem, or aging pipes.
- PlumbingSewer Smell in HouseA sewage odor inside your home — track it to a dry trap, a vent problem, or a failing sewer line before it becomes a health hazard.
- PlumbingWater HammerLoud banging in your pipes when you shut off a faucet or valve — what causes it and how to stop it before it damages fittings.
- PlumbingBrown Water from TapsRusty or brown water from your faucets — determine whether it is a municipal issue, a water heater problem, or corroding pipes in your home.
- PlumbingBanging PipesPipes that rattle, knock, or bang in the walls — distinguish water hammer from thermal expansion and loose pipes.
- PlumbingHot Water Runs Out FastYou run out of hot water after one shower or a few minutes — find out if it is a failing element, sediment, or a tank that is simply too small.
- PlumbingGarbage Disposal HummingA garbage disposal that hums but does not spin — usually a jam, not a motor failure. Here is how to tell the difference.
- PlumbingIce Maker Not WorkingYour refrigerator ice maker stopped producing ice — work through the supply, temperature, and mechanical causes.
- PlumbingDishwasher Not DrainingStanding water in the bottom of your dishwasher after a cycle — most causes are local and fixable without a service call.
- PlumbingWasher Won't DrainA washing machine full of water that will not drain — check these causes before paying for a repair visit.
- PlumbingToilet Won't FlushWhen the handle moves but nothing flushes — or the bowl does not drain — work through chain, flapper, clog, and supply issues before calling a plumber.
- PlumbingToilet Leaking at BaseWater pooling at the floor around the toilet — usually a failed wax ring, loose bolts, or a cracked flange, not a tank leak.
- PlumbingShower Has No PressureWeak shower spray at one head or the whole house — separate a clogged fixture from supply, valve, or pipe problems.
- PlumbingShower Won't Get HotLukewarm or cold shower while sinks run hot — often a mixing valve, anti-scald limit, or cross-connected pipes.
- PlumbingFaucet DrippingA dripping faucet wastes thousands of gallons per year — identify compression, cartridge, or ceramic-disk type and replace the worn part.
- PlumbingKitchen Sink Backing UpWater rising in the kitchen sink — usually grease and food in the trap or drain line, not the main sewer unless multiple fixtures fail together.
- PlumbingGurgling DrainGurgling from a sink, tub, or toilet when water runs elsewhere — air is being pulled through the trap because the vent or drain is restricted.
- PlumbingSlow Tub DrainStanding water in the tub after showers — hair and soap in the trap and shoe are the usual culprits before a deeper line clog.
- PlumbingSewage BackupRaw sewage in tubs, toilets, or floor drains is an emergency — stop using water, protect health, and clear the main line or municipal blockage.
- PlumbingBasement FloodingWater in the basement may be groundwater, foundation seepage, plumbing leaks, or sewer backup — identify the source before pumping and drying.
- PlumbingSump Pump Not WorkingA silent sump pump during rain risks basement flooding — check power, float switch, and discharge before replacing the unit.
- PlumbingWater Meter Spinning With Everything OffA moving meter dial with all fixtures off means a hidden leak — toilet, irrigation, or supply line — costing money and risking structural damage.
- PlumbingOutdoor Faucet LeakingA dripping hose bib wastes water and can freeze-damage pipes — replace washers, packing, or the frost-free stem before winter.
- PlumbingWhistling PipesWhistling or squealing in pipes when water runs — high velocity, worn valves, or water heater scale — can stress fittings over time.
- PlumbingPipe SweatingCondensation on cold water pipes in humid basements is usually not a leak — insulation and dehumidification stop drips and rust.
- PlumbingToilet SweatingA sweating toilet tank drips onto the floor in humid weather — cold refill water condenses on the porcelain unless you insulate or mix tempering water.
- PlumbingYellow WaterYellow or brown tap water often means rust from galvanized pipes, disturbed sediment after main work, or iron in well water — run cold and test before drinking.
- PlumbingWater Tastes MetallicMetallic taste usually comes from iron, manganese, low pH corroding pipes, or new plumbing — test water and check whether hot-only or all taps.
- PlumbingCloudy WaterMilky tap water that clears in a glass is often trapped air — persistent cloudiness needs testing for sediment or microorganisms.
- PlumbingWater Smells Like ChlorineChlorine odor at the tap is common after municipal treatment spikes — carbon filtration reduces smell; bleach-like odor only on hot may be anode-related.
- PlumbingWell Water SputteringAir sputtering from well taps points to low water table, failing pump, cracked drop pipe, or gas in the well — diagnose before the pump burns out.
- PlumbingWater Softener Not RegeneratingHard water returning, salt not dropping, or error codes — timer, motor, resin, or brine line issues stop regeneration and scale builds in pipes.
- PlumbingWhite Residue on FixturesWhite crust on faucets and glass is usually hard-water mineral — vinegar cleans it, but a softener or RO may be needed if it returns weekly.
- PlumbingPink Stains in ShowerPink or orange slimy stains in showers are usually Serratia bacteria in moist areas — not rust — and need cleaning and better ventilation, not repiping.
- AppliancesDishwasher Not CleaningDishes still dirty after a cycle usually mean blocked spray arms, wrong detergent, or cold water at the start.
- AppliancesFridge Leaking WaterWater on the floor from a fridge is usually a clogged defrost drain or cracked drain pan.
- AppliancesWasher Shaking ViolentlyViolent washer shake means unbalanced load, shipping bolts left in, or worn suspension.
- RoofingMold on Bathroom CeilingBathroom ceiling mold means chronic humidity — exhaust fan and air flow fix the cause, bleach only treats symptom.
- FoundationWater in CrawlspaceStanding water in a crawlspace damages structure and invites mold — find whether it is groundwater, drainage, or plumbing.
- FoundationMusty Basement SmellMusty basement air is high humidity and poor air exchange — find water source before deodorizing.
- FoundationWet Spot in YardA persistent wet yard patch may be irrigation, sewer, spring, or broken water line.
- SafetyGas Smell OutsideOutdoor gas odor may be meter leak, service line, or neighbor source — call the utility from away from the smell.
- SafetyWater Heater Making Popping NoisePopping from a water heater is sediment boiling on the bottom element — flush or replace before leak.
Questions about hiring in Washington
How much do plumbers charge in Washington?
Local labor in Washington runs about 23 percent above the national median, so a national estimate should be adjusted accordingly. Against a national median of $61,550 a year, plumbers in this metro earn closer to $75,500, and service rates track that difference.
Do I need a licensed professional in District of Columbia?
Nearly every state licenses journeyman and master plumbers; gas fitting is often a separate endorsement. Confirm the licence number with the District of Columbia board before work begins, and confirm the classification covers your specific job.
Is a permit required in Washington?
Permit thresholds are set municipally and differ even between neighbouring cities in District of Columbia. As a rule, anything altering electrical service, gas piping, drain-waste-vent, or structure requires one. The contractor holding the licence should pull it — if they ask you to pull it as a homeowner on work like that, treat it as a warning.
How do I verify a contractor's licence?
The District of Columbia licensing board publishes a free public lookup. Search the licence number, confirm it is active rather than expired or suspended, and confirm the name on the licence matches the business on your quote. Then have the certificate of insurance sent to you directly by the insurer.
Other trades in Washington
- Electricians in WashingtonLicensed electrical contractors for panel work, wiring, troubleshooting and code corrections.
- HVAC Contractors in WashingtonHeating, cooling and refrigeration contractors for service, replacement and duct work.
- Roofers in WashingtonRoofing contractors for leak repair, replacement, storm damage and inspections.
- Carpenters in WashingtonFraming, finish carpentry, decks, stairs and structural repair contractors.
- Trade Schools in WashingtonAccredited trade and technical schools offering programs in the skilled trades.
- Apprenticeship Programs in WashingtonRegistered apprenticeship programs through union locals, contractor associations and employers.