Seattle, WA
Plumbers in Seattle
Licensed plumbing contractors for water heaters, leaks, drains, fixtures and repiping. Local labor in Seattle runs about 24 percent above the national median, which is the adjustment to apply before you use any national price.
- Metro population
- 755,078
- Labor cost index
- 1.24×
- State
- Washington
Emergency and utility numbers in Washington
For gas odor, downed power lines, or flooding, call 911 or your utility emergency line first — not a contractor. After the immediate hazard is controlled, hire licensed pros for permanent repair.
- 911 — fire, medical, immediate life safety
- Gas odor — leave the building, do not switch lights, call your gas utility emergency number from outside
- Power outage / lines down — utility emergency line; stay away from downed conductors
Trade owners in Seattle
Claiming your profile is free — correct licence, service area, and contact. No lead fees and no paid placement.
Claim your businessPlumbers listed in Seattle
No listings here yet
We publish a listing only where the organization asked to be listed, or where every field came from a public licence register. Neither has happened for plumbers in Seattle yet, so there is nothing to show — rather than a page of names scraped from somewhere and presented as vetted.
The costs, licensing and verification steps below apply regardless. If you run a business here, listing is free and always will be.
What the work costs here
National ranges adjusted by the Seattle labor index. Materials move far less by region than labor does, so treat these as directional — the range narrows once someone has actually seen the job.
- Plumber median pay here
- $76,500
- National median $61,550
- Labor cost vs. national
- +24%
- Applied to the estimates below
- Metro population
- 755,078
- Washington
| Job | National typical | Seattle typical | Range here |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water Heater Replacement | $1,800 | $2,200 | $1,100–$4,200 |
| Sewer Line Repair & Replacement | $7,000 | $8,700 | $1,900–$37,000 |
| Whole-House Repiping | $9,000 | $11,000 | $5,000–$22,500 |
| Water Softener Installation | $1,800 | $2,200 | $1,000–$4,300 |
| Well Pump Replacement | $1,800 | $2,200 | $1,000–$5,000 |
| Toilet Replacement | $350 | $425 | $250–$875 |
| Shower Valve & Cartridge Replacement | $500 | $625 | $250–$1,900 |
| Slab Leak Repair | $3,500 | $4,300 | $1,900–$9,900 |
| Sump Pump Installation | $2,000 | $2,500 | $1,200–$5,600 |
| Tankless Water Heater Conversion | $5,500 | $6,800 | $4,300–$11,000 |
| Drain Cleaning | $225 | $275 | $125–$550 |
| Hydro-Jetting | $650 | $800 | $425–$1,600 |
| Sewer Camera Inspection | $400 | $500 | $250–$1,000 |
| Leak Detection | $350 | $425 | $175–$1,100 |
| Faucet Replacement | $325 | $400 | $225–$800 |
| Garbage Disposal Replacement | $375 | $475 | $250–$750 |
| Main Shutoff Valve Replacement | $300 | $375 | $175–$750 |
| Pressure Regulator Replacement | $400 | $500 | $250–$925 |
| Water Line Replacement | $4,500 | $5,600 | $2,500–$12,500 |
| Sewer Line Replacement | $15,000 | $18,500 | $9,900–$37,000 |
| Gas Line Installation | $1,200 | $1,500 | $625–$4,300 |
| Bathtub Replacement | $3,500 | $4,300 | $1,900–$9,900 |
| Shower Pan Replacement | $2,500 | $3,100 | $1,200–$6,800 |
| Water Heater Repair | $350 | $425 | $175–$925 |
| Frozen Pipe Repair | $600 | $750 | $250–$3,100 |
| Outdoor Spigot Replacement | $275 | $350 | $175–$625 |
| Septic Tank Pumping | $400 | $500 | $300–$875 |
| Septic System Replacement | $18,000 | $22,500 | $12,500–$43,500 |
| Water Filtration Installation | $1,500 | $1,900 | $625–$5,000 |
| Well Pressure Tank Replacement | $750 | $925 | $500–$1,700 |
| Backflow Preventer Installation | $400 | $500 | $250–$1,100 |
| Bidet Installation | $500 | $625 | $300–$1,500 |
| Washing Machine Hookup | $350 | $425 | $175–$1,000 |
| Pipe Insulation | $450 | $550 | $250–$1,500 |
| Bathroom Remodel | $15,000 | $18,500 | $7,400–$49,500 |
| Basement Waterproofing | $7,000 | $8,700 | $3,700–$18,500 |
| Sprinkler System Installation | $4,500 | $5,600 | $3,500–$13,500 |
| French Drain Installation | $5,000 | $6,200 | $2,700–$20,000 |
| Yard Drainage Correction | $4,000 | $5,000 | $2,200–$17,500 |
| Dishwasher Installation | $375 | $475 | $250–$1,200 |
| Washer and Dryer Installation | $400 | $500 | $225–$1,600 |
| Crawlspace Encapsulation | $10,000 | $12,500 | $6,800–$32,000 |
| Water Damage Restoration | $5,500 | $6,800 | $2,700–$32,000 |
| Radon Mitigation | $1,600 | $2,000 | $1,100–$5,200 |
| Crawl Space Vapor Barrier | $3,200 | $4,000 | $2,000–$10,500 |
| Sewage Cleanup | $5,000 | $6,200 | $2,700–$21,000 |
How these numbers are derived
National ranges are multiplied by a 1.24× labor index for Seattle. The index is an approximation for planning, not a wage survey, and it applies to labor rather than to materials. Use it to sanity-check a quote, not to argue one down to the dollar.
Permits and code in Seattle
Checked against the issuing authority on 2026-10-07. Fees and thresholds change — the link below is the authority, this page is not.
Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI)
Online via Seattle Services Portal (Accela) or in person at Seattle Municipal Tower. Washington L&I-licensed contractors; energy code and side-sewer permits may be separate tracks.
Permit office website(206) 684-8600
What needs a permit here
- Electrical panel upgrade, service replacement, or EV charger installation
- Water heater replacement and gas piping alterations
- HVAC heat pump or furnace changeout and duct sealing
- Roof replacement when structural decking is replaced
- Side sewer repair or replacement (often separate permit with Seattle Public Utilities)
- Deck, ADU, or DADU construction requiring structural review
| Permit | Published fee | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Residential Building Permit Base | $150.00+ by valuation | SDCI fee schedule; Seattle valuation multipliers increase totals versus suburban jurisdictions. |
| Electrical Permit | $110.00 - $220.00 | Service upgrades and new circuits. |
| Plumbing Water Heater Permit | $95.00 - $155.00 | Expansion tank and relief discharge on closed-loop systems. |
| Mechanical HVAC Permit | $105.00 - $190.00 | Washington State Energy Code compliance on equipment changeouts. |
Local amendments worth knowing
Cities adopt the model codes then amend them. The amendments are what catch people out, because a national guide will not mention them.
Seattle Energy Code (2021 Washington State base)
Stricter than state minimum on HVAC, envelope, and heat-recovery ventilation on major remodels.
Read the amendmentSeattle Side Sewer Code
Side sewer work requires SPU coordination and often a separate permit from building trades.
Read the amendmentSeattle Tree Protection Ordinance
Significant tree removal or impact near construction may require arborist review before permit.
Read the amendment
Verify a licence
Washington L&I — Electrical Contractor
Electrical contractors and administrators
Public licence lookupWashington L&I — Plumbing
Plumbers and plumbing contractors
Public licence lookupWashington L&I — HVAC / Mechanical
HVAC contractors and mechanics
Public licence lookupWashington State Board of Registration for Professional Engineers
PE for seismic and geotechnical design on steep lots
Public licence lookup
Conditions that change the job here
- Marine climate with mild winters favors heat pumps but drives mold risk if ventilation is inadequate.
- Steep lots and glacial till require engineered foundations and retaining walls.
- Heavy rainfall demands robust roof drainage, gutters, and side-sewer maintenance.
- Seismic retrofit expectations on older soft-story and unreinforced masonry buildings.
- High labor costs and permit backlog extend timelines on complex remodels.
Local context for Seattle, WA
Permit rules, fees, and housing-stock conditions change by city even within the same state. These facts come from the researched metro profile — not from a template with the city name swapped in.
Permit office
Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI) · Filing information · (206) 684-8600
Common permit triggers here
- Electrical panel upgrade, service replacement, or EV charger installation
- Water heater replacement and gas piping alterations
- HVAC heat pump or furnace changeout and duct sealing
- Roof replacement when structural decking is replaced
- Side sewer repair or replacement (often separate permit with Seattle Public Utilities)
- Deck, ADU, or DADU construction requiring structural review
Local conditions that change the work
- Marine climate with mild winters favors heat pumps but drives mold risk if ventilation is inadequate.
- Steep lots and glacial till require engineered foundations and retaining walls.
- Heavy rainfall demands robust roof drainage, gutters, and side-sewer maintenance.
- Seismic retrofit expectations on older soft-story and unreinforced masonry buildings.
- High labor costs and permit backlog extend timelines on complex remodels.
Verify before you hire in Washington
Check the licence with the Washington board
Nearly every state licenses journeyman and master plumbers; gas fitting is often a separate endorsement. Search the number in the state's public lookup, confirm it is active, and confirm the classification covers your job rather than something adjacent to it.
Have the insurer send the certificate
Ask for general liability and workers' compensation to be sent to you directly by the insurance agent. A PDF forwarded by the contractor proves the document existed once, not that the policy is current.
Get the scope in writing, with exclusions
What is included matters less than what is excluded. Permits, disposal, patching, and code upgrades triggered by the work are the four line items that most often turn into change orders.
Confirm who pulls the permit
Permit thresholds are municipal in Washington. The licence holder should pull it. If you are asked to pull it as a homeowner on licensed work, you are absorbing their liability.
Never pay the full amount up front
A deposit for materials on a large job is normal. Paying in full before work begins is not, and several states cap what a contractor may take as a deposit.
Work out the problem before you call
- PlumbingNo Hot WaterFind out why a water heater has stopped producing hot water, for both gas and electric units.
- PlumbingDrain Keeps CloggingTell the difference between a local fixture clog and a main line problem before you spend money on the wrong fix.
- PlumbingWater Heater LeakingWater pooling around your water heater — identify where the leak is coming from and whether you can wait or need same-day replacement.
- PlumbingToilet Running ConstantlyA toilet that will not stop running wastes 200 gallons or more per day — find the cause and fix it in minutes or know when to call a plumber.
- PlumbingLow Water PressureWeak water pressure at one fixture or throughout the house — narrow down whether it is a local clog, a supply problem, or aging pipes.
- PlumbingSewer Smell in HouseA sewage odor inside your home — track it to a dry trap, a vent problem, or a failing sewer line before it becomes a health hazard.
- PlumbingWater HammerLoud banging in your pipes when you shut off a faucet or valve — what causes it and how to stop it before it damages fittings.
- PlumbingBrown Water from TapsRusty or brown water from your faucets — determine whether it is a municipal issue, a water heater problem, or corroding pipes in your home.
- PlumbingBanging PipesPipes that rattle, knock, or bang in the walls — distinguish water hammer from thermal expansion and loose pipes.
- PlumbingHot Water Runs Out FastYou run out of hot water after one shower or a few minutes — find out if it is a failing element, sediment, or a tank that is simply too small.
- PlumbingGarbage Disposal HummingA garbage disposal that hums but does not spin — usually a jam, not a motor failure. Here is how to tell the difference.
- PlumbingIce Maker Not WorkingYour refrigerator ice maker stopped producing ice — work through the supply, temperature, and mechanical causes.
- PlumbingDishwasher Not DrainingStanding water in the bottom of your dishwasher after a cycle — most causes are local and fixable without a service call.
- PlumbingWasher Won't DrainA washing machine full of water that will not drain — check these causes before paying for a repair visit.
- PlumbingToilet Won't FlushWhen the handle moves but nothing flushes — or the bowl does not drain — work through chain, flapper, clog, and supply issues before calling a plumber.
- PlumbingToilet Leaking at BaseWater pooling at the floor around the toilet — usually a failed wax ring, loose bolts, or a cracked flange, not a tank leak.
- PlumbingShower Has No PressureWeak shower spray at one head or the whole house — separate a clogged fixture from supply, valve, or pipe problems.
- PlumbingShower Won't Get HotLukewarm or cold shower while sinks run hot — often a mixing valve, anti-scald limit, or cross-connected pipes.
- PlumbingFaucet DrippingA dripping faucet wastes thousands of gallons per year — identify compression, cartridge, or ceramic-disk type and replace the worn part.
- PlumbingKitchen Sink Backing UpWater rising in the kitchen sink — usually grease and food in the trap or drain line, not the main sewer unless multiple fixtures fail together.
- PlumbingGurgling DrainGurgling from a sink, tub, or toilet when water runs elsewhere — air is being pulled through the trap because the vent or drain is restricted.
- PlumbingSlow Tub DrainStanding water in the tub after showers — hair and soap in the trap and shoe are the usual culprits before a deeper line clog.
- PlumbingSewage BackupRaw sewage in tubs, toilets, or floor drains is an emergency — stop using water, protect health, and clear the main line or municipal blockage.
- PlumbingBasement FloodingWater in the basement may be groundwater, foundation seepage, plumbing leaks, or sewer backup — identify the source before pumping and drying.
- PlumbingSump Pump Not WorkingA silent sump pump during rain risks basement flooding — check power, float switch, and discharge before replacing the unit.
- PlumbingWater Meter Spinning With Everything OffA moving meter dial with all fixtures off means a hidden leak — toilet, irrigation, or supply line — costing money and risking structural damage.
- PlumbingOutdoor Faucet LeakingA dripping hose bib wastes water and can freeze-damage pipes — replace washers, packing, or the frost-free stem before winter.
- PlumbingWhistling PipesWhistling or squealing in pipes when water runs — high velocity, worn valves, or water heater scale — can stress fittings over time.
- PlumbingPipe SweatingCondensation on cold water pipes in humid basements is usually not a leak — insulation and dehumidification stop drips and rust.
- PlumbingToilet SweatingA sweating toilet tank drips onto the floor in humid weather — cold refill water condenses on the porcelain unless you insulate or mix tempering water.
- PlumbingYellow WaterYellow or brown tap water often means rust from galvanized pipes, disturbed sediment after main work, or iron in well water — run cold and test before drinking.
- PlumbingWater Tastes MetallicMetallic taste usually comes from iron, manganese, low pH corroding pipes, or new plumbing — test water and check whether hot-only or all taps.
- PlumbingCloudy WaterMilky tap water that clears in a glass is often trapped air — persistent cloudiness needs testing for sediment or microorganisms.
- PlumbingWater Smells Like ChlorineChlorine odor at the tap is common after municipal treatment spikes — carbon filtration reduces smell; bleach-like odor only on hot may be anode-related.
- PlumbingWell Water SputteringAir sputtering from well taps points to low water table, failing pump, cracked drop pipe, or gas in the well — diagnose before the pump burns out.
- PlumbingWater Softener Not RegeneratingHard water returning, salt not dropping, or error codes — timer, motor, resin, or brine line issues stop regeneration and scale builds in pipes.
- PlumbingWhite Residue on FixturesWhite crust on faucets and glass is usually hard-water mineral — vinegar cleans it, but a softener or RO may be needed if it returns weekly.
- PlumbingPink Stains in ShowerPink or orange slimy stains in showers are usually Serratia bacteria in moist areas — not rust — and need cleaning and better ventilation, not repiping.
- AppliancesDishwasher Not CleaningDishes still dirty after a cycle usually mean blocked spray arms, wrong detergent, or cold water at the start.
- AppliancesFridge Leaking WaterWater on the floor from a fridge is usually a clogged defrost drain or cracked drain pan.
- AppliancesWasher Shaking ViolentlyViolent washer shake means unbalanced load, shipping bolts left in, or worn suspension.
- RoofingMold on Bathroom CeilingBathroom ceiling mold means chronic humidity — exhaust fan and air flow fix the cause, bleach only treats symptom.
- FoundationWater in CrawlspaceStanding water in a crawlspace damages structure and invites mold — find whether it is groundwater, drainage, or plumbing.
- FoundationMusty Basement SmellMusty basement air is high humidity and poor air exchange — find water source before deodorizing.
- FoundationWet Spot in YardA persistent wet yard patch may be irrigation, sewer, spring, or broken water line.
- SafetyGas Smell OutsideOutdoor gas odor may be meter leak, service line, or neighbor source — call the utility from away from the smell.
- SafetyWater Heater Making Popping NoisePopping from a water heater is sediment boiling on the bottom element — flush or replace before leak.
Questions about hiring in Seattle
How much do plumbers charge in Seattle?
Local labor in Seattle runs about 24 percent above the national median, so a national estimate should be adjusted accordingly. Against a national median of $61,550 a year, plumbers in this metro earn closer to $76,500, and service rates track that difference.
Do I need a licensed professional in Washington?
Nearly every state licenses journeyman and master plumbers; gas fitting is often a separate endorsement. Confirm the licence number with the Washington board before work begins, and confirm the classification covers your specific job.
Is a permit required in Seattle?
Permit thresholds are set municipally and differ even between neighbouring cities in Washington. As a rule, anything altering electrical service, gas piping, drain-waste-vent, or structure requires one. The contractor holding the licence should pull it — if they ask you to pull it as a homeowner on work like that, treat it as a warning.
How do I verify a contractor's licence?
The Washington licensing board publishes a free public lookup. Search the licence number, confirm it is active rather than expired or suspended, and confirm the name on the licence matches the business on your quote. Then have the certificate of insurance sent to you directly by the insurer.
Other trades in Seattle
- Electricians in SeattleLicensed electrical contractors for panel work, wiring, troubleshooting and code corrections.
- HVAC Contractors in SeattleHeating, cooling and refrigeration contractors for service, replacement and duct work.
- Roofers in SeattleRoofing contractors for leak repair, replacement, storm damage and inspections.
- Carpenters in SeattleFraming, finish carpentry, decks, stairs and structural repair contractors.
- Trade Schools in SeattleAccredited trade and technical schools offering programs in the skilled trades.
- Apprenticeship Programs in SeattleRegistered apprenticeship programs through union locals, contractor associations and employers.