St. Louis, MO
Plumbers in St. Louis
Licensed plumbing contractors for water heaters, leaks, drains, fixtures and repiping. Local labor in St. Louis runs about 4 percent below the national median, which is the adjustment to apply before you use any national price.
- Metro population
- 281,754
- Labor cost index
- 0.96×
- State
- Missouri
Emergency and utility numbers in Missouri
For gas odor, downed power lines, or flooding, call 911 or your utility emergency line first — not a contractor. After the immediate hazard is controlled, hire licensed pros for permanent repair.
- 911 — fire, medical, immediate life safety
- Gas odor — leave the building, do not switch lights, call your gas utility emergency number from outside
- Power outage / lines down — utility emergency line; stay away from downed conductors
Trade owners in St. Louis
Claiming your profile is free — correct licence, service area, and contact. No lead fees and no paid placement.
Claim your businessPlumbers listed in St. Louis
No listings here yet
We publish a listing only where the organization asked to be listed, or where every field came from a public licence register. Neither has happened for plumbers in St. Louis yet, so there is nothing to show — rather than a page of names scraped from somewhere and presented as vetted.
The costs, licensing and verification steps below apply regardless. If you run a business here, listing is free and always will be.
What the work costs here
National ranges adjusted by the St. Louis labor index. Materials move far less by region than labor does, so treat these as directional — the range narrows once someone has actually seen the job.
- Plumber median pay here
- $59,000
- National median $61,550
- Labor cost vs. national
- -4%
- Applied to the estimates below
- Metro population
- 281,754
- Missouri
| Job | National typical | St. Louis typical | Range here |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water Heater Replacement | $1,800 | $1,700 | $875–$3,300 |
| Sewer Line Repair & Replacement | $7,000 | $6,700 | $1,400–$29,000 |
| Whole-House Repiping | $9,000 | $8,600 | $3,800–$17,500 |
| Water Softener Installation | $1,800 | $1,700 | $775–$3,400 |
| Well Pump Replacement | $1,800 | $1,700 | $775–$3,800 |
| Toilet Replacement | $350 | $325 | $200–$675 |
| Shower Valve & Cartridge Replacement | $500 | $475 | $200–$1,400 |
| Slab Leak Repair | $3,500 | $3,400 | $1,400–$7,700 |
| Sump Pump Installation | $2,000 | $1,900 | $950–$4,300 |
| Tankless Water Heater Conversion | $5,500 | $5,300 | $3,400–$8,600 |
| Drain Cleaning | $225 | $225 | $95–$425 |
| Hydro-Jetting | $650 | $625 | $325–$1,200 |
| Sewer Camera Inspection | $400 | $375 | $200–$775 |
| Leak Detection | $350 | $325 | $150–$875 |
| Faucet Replacement | $325 | $300 | $175–$625 |
| Garbage Disposal Replacement | $375 | $350 | $200–$575 |
| Main Shutoff Valve Replacement | $300 | $300 | $150–$575 |
| Pressure Regulator Replacement | $400 | $375 | $200–$725 |
| Water Line Replacement | $4,500 | $4,300 | $1,900–$9,600 |
| Sewer Line Replacement | $15,000 | $14,500 | $7,700–$29,000 |
| Gas Line Installation | $1,200 | $1,200 | $475–$3,400 |
| Bathtub Replacement | $3,500 | $3,400 | $1,400–$7,700 |
| Shower Pan Replacement | $2,500 | $2,400 | $950–$5,300 |
| Water Heater Repair | $350 | $325 | $150–$725 |
| Frozen Pipe Repair | $600 | $575 | $200–$2,400 |
| Outdoor Spigot Replacement | $275 | $275 | $150–$475 |
| Septic Tank Pumping | $400 | $375 | $250–$675 |
| Septic System Replacement | $18,000 | $17,500 | $9,600–$33,500 |
| Water Filtration Installation | $1,500 | $1,400 | $475–$3,800 |
| Well Pressure Tank Replacement | $750 | $725 | $375–$1,300 |
| Backflow Preventer Installation | $400 | $375 | $200–$875 |
| Bidet Installation | $500 | $475 | $250–$1,200 |
| Washing Machine Hookup | $350 | $325 | $150–$775 |
| Pipe Insulation | $450 | $425 | $200–$1,200 |
| Bathroom Remodel | $15,000 | $14,500 | $5,800–$38,500 |
| Basement Waterproofing | $7,000 | $6,700 | $2,900–$14,500 |
| Sprinkler System Installation | $4,500 | $4,300 | $2,700–$10,500 |
| French Drain Installation | $5,000 | $4,800 | $2,100–$15,500 |
| Yard Drainage Correction | $4,000 | $3,800 | $1,700–$13,500 |
| Dishwasher Installation | $375 | $350 | $200–$900 |
| Washer and Dryer Installation | $400 | $375 | $175–$1,200 |
| Crawlspace Encapsulation | $10,000 | $9,600 | $5,300–$25,000 |
| Water Damage Restoration | $5,500 | $5,300 | $2,100–$25,000 |
| Radon Mitigation | $1,600 | $1,500 | $875–$4,000 |
| Crawl Space Vapor Barrier | $3,200 | $3,100 | $1,500–$8,200 |
| Sewage Cleanup | $5,000 | $4,800 | $2,100–$16,500 |
How these numbers are derived
National ranges are multiplied by a 0.96× labor index for St. Louis. The index is an approximation for planning, not a wage survey, and it applies to labor rather than to materials. Use it to sanity-check a quote, not to argue one down to the dollar.
Permits and code in St. Louis
Checked against the issuing authority on 2026-10-07. Fees and thresholds change — the link below is the authority, this page is not.
City of St. Louis — Building Division
Online via St. Louis Citizen Service Bureau / permit portal or in person at City Hall, 1200 Market St. Separate St. Louis County permits apply outside the independent city limits.
Permit office website(314) 622-3313
What needs a permit here
- Electrical panel replacement, service upgrade, or knob-and-tube remediation
- Water heater changeout and gas piping repairs in older housing stock
- HVAC furnace or central AC replacement and duct alterations
- Roof replacement when structural decking is replaced
- Porch, stair, or masonry structural repairs on historic properties
- Lead-safe work practices may apply when disturbing painted surfaces in pre-1978 housing
| Permit | Published fee | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Residential Building Permit Minimum | $70.00 - $110.00 | City of St. Louis fee schedule for minor residential alterations. |
| Electrical Trade Permit | $80.00 - $125.00 | Panel and service work billed by amperage and circuit count. |
| Plumbing Water Heater Permit | $60.00 - $85.00 | Gas venting and relief valve discharge inspection included. |
| Mechanical HVAC Permit | $70.00 - $105.00 | Equipment swap and venting compliance for fuel-burning appliances. |
Local amendments worth knowing
Cities adopt the model codes then amend them. The amendments are what catch people out, because a national guide will not mention them.
City of St. Louis Building Code
Adopted IBC/IRC with local provisions for historic districts and vacant-building stabilization.
Read the amendmentSt. Louis Lead-Safe Housing Ordinance
Renovation in pre-1978 housing may require lead-safe certification and clearance on permitted work.
Read the amendmentMississippi River Floodplain
Low-lying parcels require floodplain administrator approval and elevated utilities.
Read the amendment
Verify a licence
Missouri Professional Registration — Electrical
Electrical contractors and journeyman electricians
Public licence lookupMissouri Professional Registration — Plumbing
Plumbing contractors
Public licence lookupMissouri Professional Registration — HVAC
Mechanical and HVAC contractors
Public licence lookupMissouri Board for Architects, Professional Engineers, Professional Land Surveyors
PE sign-off for structural repairs and retaining walls
Public licence lookup
Conditions that change the job here
- Dense stock of pre-war brick homes with balloon framing complicates rewiring and fire blocking upgrades.
- Mississippi River humidity and summer heat drive attic mold risk if ventilation is inadequate during HVAC work.
- Clay bluffs and fill soils affect foundation drainage and basement waterproofing scope.
- Historic district review (Soulard, Lafayette Square, etc.) adds time before exterior permit approval.
- Vacant-building registration rules can delay permits until property compliance is current.
Local context for St. Louis, MO
Permit rules, fees, and housing-stock conditions change by city even within the same state. These facts come from the researched metro profile — not from a template with the city name swapped in.
Permit office
City of St. Louis — Building Division · Filing information · (314) 622-3313
Common permit triggers here
- Electrical panel replacement, service upgrade, or knob-and-tube remediation
- Water heater changeout and gas piping repairs in older housing stock
- HVAC furnace or central AC replacement and duct alterations
- Roof replacement when structural decking is replaced
- Porch, stair, or masonry structural repairs on historic properties
- Lead-safe work practices may apply when disturbing painted surfaces in pre-1978 housing
Local conditions that change the work
- Dense stock of pre-war brick homes with balloon framing complicates rewiring and fire blocking upgrades.
- Mississippi River humidity and summer heat drive attic mold risk if ventilation is inadequate during HVAC work.
- Clay bluffs and fill soils affect foundation drainage and basement waterproofing scope.
- Historic district review (Soulard, Lafayette Square, etc.) adds time before exterior permit approval.
- Vacant-building registration rules can delay permits until property compliance is current.
Verify before you hire in Missouri
Check the licence with the Missouri board
Nearly every state licenses journeyman and master plumbers; gas fitting is often a separate endorsement. Search the number in the state's public lookup, confirm it is active, and confirm the classification covers your job rather than something adjacent to it.
Have the insurer send the certificate
Ask for general liability and workers' compensation to be sent to you directly by the insurance agent. A PDF forwarded by the contractor proves the document existed once, not that the policy is current.
Get the scope in writing, with exclusions
What is included matters less than what is excluded. Permits, disposal, patching, and code upgrades triggered by the work are the four line items that most often turn into change orders.
Confirm who pulls the permit
Permit thresholds are municipal in Missouri. The licence holder should pull it. If you are asked to pull it as a homeowner on licensed work, you are absorbing their liability.
Never pay the full amount up front
A deposit for materials on a large job is normal. Paying in full before work begins is not, and several states cap what a contractor may take as a deposit.
Work out the problem before you call
- PlumbingNo Hot WaterFind out why a water heater has stopped producing hot water, for both gas and electric units.
- PlumbingDrain Keeps CloggingTell the difference between a local fixture clog and a main line problem before you spend money on the wrong fix.
- PlumbingWater Heater LeakingWater pooling around your water heater — identify where the leak is coming from and whether you can wait or need same-day replacement.
- PlumbingToilet Running ConstantlyA toilet that will not stop running wastes 200 gallons or more per day — find the cause and fix it in minutes or know when to call a plumber.
- PlumbingLow Water PressureWeak water pressure at one fixture or throughout the house — narrow down whether it is a local clog, a supply problem, or aging pipes.
- PlumbingSewer Smell in HouseA sewage odor inside your home — track it to a dry trap, a vent problem, or a failing sewer line before it becomes a health hazard.
- PlumbingWater HammerLoud banging in your pipes when you shut off a faucet or valve — what causes it and how to stop it before it damages fittings.
- PlumbingBrown Water from TapsRusty or brown water from your faucets — determine whether it is a municipal issue, a water heater problem, or corroding pipes in your home.
- PlumbingBanging PipesPipes that rattle, knock, or bang in the walls — distinguish water hammer from thermal expansion and loose pipes.
- PlumbingHot Water Runs Out FastYou run out of hot water after one shower or a few minutes — find out if it is a failing element, sediment, or a tank that is simply too small.
- PlumbingGarbage Disposal HummingA garbage disposal that hums but does not spin — usually a jam, not a motor failure. Here is how to tell the difference.
- PlumbingIce Maker Not WorkingYour refrigerator ice maker stopped producing ice — work through the supply, temperature, and mechanical causes.
- PlumbingDishwasher Not DrainingStanding water in the bottom of your dishwasher after a cycle — most causes are local and fixable without a service call.
- PlumbingWasher Won't DrainA washing machine full of water that will not drain — check these causes before paying for a repair visit.
- PlumbingToilet Won't FlushWhen the handle moves but nothing flushes — or the bowl does not drain — work through chain, flapper, clog, and supply issues before calling a plumber.
- PlumbingToilet Leaking at BaseWater pooling at the floor around the toilet — usually a failed wax ring, loose bolts, or a cracked flange, not a tank leak.
- PlumbingShower Has No PressureWeak shower spray at one head or the whole house — separate a clogged fixture from supply, valve, or pipe problems.
- PlumbingShower Won't Get HotLukewarm or cold shower while sinks run hot — often a mixing valve, anti-scald limit, or cross-connected pipes.
- PlumbingFaucet DrippingA dripping faucet wastes thousands of gallons per year — identify compression, cartridge, or ceramic-disk type and replace the worn part.
- PlumbingKitchen Sink Backing UpWater rising in the kitchen sink — usually grease and food in the trap or drain line, not the main sewer unless multiple fixtures fail together.
- PlumbingGurgling DrainGurgling from a sink, tub, or toilet when water runs elsewhere — air is being pulled through the trap because the vent or drain is restricted.
- PlumbingSlow Tub DrainStanding water in the tub after showers — hair and soap in the trap and shoe are the usual culprits before a deeper line clog.
- PlumbingSewage BackupRaw sewage in tubs, toilets, or floor drains is an emergency — stop using water, protect health, and clear the main line or municipal blockage.
- PlumbingBasement FloodingWater in the basement may be groundwater, foundation seepage, plumbing leaks, or sewer backup — identify the source before pumping and drying.
- PlumbingSump Pump Not WorkingA silent sump pump during rain risks basement flooding — check power, float switch, and discharge before replacing the unit.
- PlumbingWater Meter Spinning With Everything OffA moving meter dial with all fixtures off means a hidden leak — toilet, irrigation, or supply line — costing money and risking structural damage.
- PlumbingOutdoor Faucet LeakingA dripping hose bib wastes water and can freeze-damage pipes — replace washers, packing, or the frost-free stem before winter.
- PlumbingWhistling PipesWhistling or squealing in pipes when water runs — high velocity, worn valves, or water heater scale — can stress fittings over time.
- PlumbingPipe SweatingCondensation on cold water pipes in humid basements is usually not a leak — insulation and dehumidification stop drips and rust.
- PlumbingToilet SweatingA sweating toilet tank drips onto the floor in humid weather — cold refill water condenses on the porcelain unless you insulate or mix tempering water.
- PlumbingYellow WaterYellow or brown tap water often means rust from galvanized pipes, disturbed sediment after main work, or iron in well water — run cold and test before drinking.
- PlumbingWater Tastes MetallicMetallic taste usually comes from iron, manganese, low pH corroding pipes, or new plumbing — test water and check whether hot-only or all taps.
- PlumbingCloudy WaterMilky tap water that clears in a glass is often trapped air — persistent cloudiness needs testing for sediment or microorganisms.
- PlumbingWater Smells Like ChlorineChlorine odor at the tap is common after municipal treatment spikes — carbon filtration reduces smell; bleach-like odor only on hot may be anode-related.
- PlumbingWell Water SputteringAir sputtering from well taps points to low water table, failing pump, cracked drop pipe, or gas in the well — diagnose before the pump burns out.
- PlumbingWater Softener Not RegeneratingHard water returning, salt not dropping, or error codes — timer, motor, resin, or brine line issues stop regeneration and scale builds in pipes.
- PlumbingWhite Residue on FixturesWhite crust on faucets and glass is usually hard-water mineral — vinegar cleans it, but a softener or RO may be needed if it returns weekly.
- PlumbingPink Stains in ShowerPink or orange slimy stains in showers are usually Serratia bacteria in moist areas — not rust — and need cleaning and better ventilation, not repiping.
- AppliancesDishwasher Not CleaningDishes still dirty after a cycle usually mean blocked spray arms, wrong detergent, or cold water at the start.
- AppliancesFridge Leaking WaterWater on the floor from a fridge is usually a clogged defrost drain or cracked drain pan.
- AppliancesWasher Shaking ViolentlyViolent washer shake means unbalanced load, shipping bolts left in, or worn suspension.
- RoofingMold on Bathroom CeilingBathroom ceiling mold means chronic humidity — exhaust fan and air flow fix the cause, bleach only treats symptom.
- FoundationWater in CrawlspaceStanding water in a crawlspace damages structure and invites mold — find whether it is groundwater, drainage, or plumbing.
- FoundationMusty Basement SmellMusty basement air is high humidity and poor air exchange — find water source before deodorizing.
- FoundationWet Spot in YardA persistent wet yard patch may be irrigation, sewer, spring, or broken water line.
- SafetyGas Smell OutsideOutdoor gas odor may be meter leak, service line, or neighbor source — call the utility from away from the smell.
- SafetyWater Heater Making Popping NoisePopping from a water heater is sediment boiling on the bottom element — flush or replace before leak.
Questions about hiring in St. Louis
How much do plumbers charge in St. Louis?
Local labor in St. Louis runs about 4 percent below the national median, so a national estimate should be adjusted accordingly. Against a national median of $61,550 a year, plumbers in this metro earn closer to $59,000, and service rates track that difference.
Do I need a licensed professional in Missouri?
Nearly every state licenses journeyman and master plumbers; gas fitting is often a separate endorsement. Confirm the licence number with the Missouri board before work begins, and confirm the classification covers your specific job.
Is a permit required in St. Louis?
Permit thresholds are set municipally and differ even between neighbouring cities in Missouri. As a rule, anything altering electrical service, gas piping, drain-waste-vent, or structure requires one. The contractor holding the licence should pull it — if they ask you to pull it as a homeowner on work like that, treat it as a warning.
How do I verify a contractor's licence?
The Missouri licensing board publishes a free public lookup. Search the licence number, confirm it is active rather than expired or suspended, and confirm the name on the licence matches the business on your quote. Then have the certificate of insurance sent to you directly by the insurer.
Other trades in St. Louis
- Electricians in St. LouisLicensed electrical contractors for panel work, wiring, troubleshooting and code corrections.
- HVAC Contractors in St. LouisHeating, cooling and refrigeration contractors for service, replacement and duct work.
- Roofers in St. LouisRoofing contractors for leak repair, replacement, storm damage and inspections.
- Carpenters in St. LouisFraming, finish carpentry, decks, stairs and structural repair contractors.
- Trade Schools in St. LouisAccredited trade and technical schools offering programs in the skilled trades.
- Apprenticeship Programs in St. LouisRegistered apprenticeship programs through union locals, contractor associations and employers.